New York Fashion Week F/W2012 Recap
by Marlee Katz
As New York Fashion Week came to a close this past Friday, it is key to recall the top designers’ collections and the many trends that will be seen this coming fall. Many different styles were seen on runway, such as fur detailing, leather, layering fabric and textures, color blocking, the use of pattern, peplum, icy and cool blues, and the juxtaposition of stark white and black.
Day one began with Nicholas K who focused on layering fabrics and textures. BCBG Max Azria and Richard Chai both focused on colored basics and straightforward wearable pieces. BCBG was the first show of day one to debut the fur trend. Many pieces were embellished with recycled furs. Inspired by abstract artist Mondrian, another key point in BCBG’s line was the use of color blocking. Like BCBG, Richard Chai focused heavily on color in his fall collection. He mixed floral and stripes, red and blue, and used pops of corals and tie-dye in his collection. The oversized blazers and slim pants gave off a masculine and urban type of vibe.
The final noteworthy designer from day one was Tadashi Shoji. His “Golden Age of Shanghai”-inspired line was feminine and red carpet-ready. Gowns were covered in Chantilly lace, chiffon and silk. The dresses were constructed in brilliant colors and many had drop-waist hemlines, another new trend found in many of these shows. One of the final gowns constructed of black velvet with lace and embroidery on the bodice was the highlight of Shoji’s show.
The key designers from day two were Jason Wu, Kate Spade, Rebecca Taylor and Rebecca Minkoff. Similarly to Tadashi Shoji, Jason Wu was inspired by China, specifically the movie “Shanghai Express.” His garments were covered in Chinese imagery, silk brocade, tassels, cording, and gold. Again, fur was debuted in this collection as a big trend for Fall 2012.
Kate Spade had one of the more fun and feminine collections for this fall. Paris inspired, the line featured a bright color palette. Maraschino red, aqua, forest green, big polka dots, and graphic prints were the key colors and patterns for the line. This line was quite different from most of the shows on day two.
Rebecca Taylor mixed leather, studs, chiffon, and python in her collection. Models wore chunky fur boots and bright colored leggings. In an interview with Time Magazine, Taylor explained that the line was inspired by what she wants to wear. Similar to Nicholas K (from day one), Taylor focused on layering fabrics and mixing textures. Finally, Rebecca Minkoff’s line included biker jackets and ankle pants, along with drop shoulder blazers that were meant to showcase the female form. Minkoff used a lot of kaleidoscope prints, brocade, tweed and silk, emphasizing the layer and texture trend for this fall.
Day three kicked off with Prabal Gurung. According to Rolling Stone Magazine, a “spiritual cleansing” inspired his line. He also claimed inspiration came from Georgia O’Keefe’s cow skull painting. His garments were of dark hues, cool blues, gold and white sequins, and lamé.
Next, Hervé Leger’s models wore leather body harnesses. The line was seductive and equestrian-inspired. Dresses were adorned with beads, leather and fur.
Jill Stuart’s line differed from both Gurung and Leger in that hers was more whimsical and flirty. The color palette included plum, indigo, and white. Models wore shift dresses and a-line skirts.
Monique Lhuillier’s pieces are already on hold for the Oscars. Her gowns were only red and black and showed off the long and lean female form. Dresses were adorned in beading, embroidery, and the ever-present fur trend.
Day four began with a journey around the globe, with Y-3’s world traveler-inspired collection. Models wore sporty knits and prints, exquisitely tailored leather jackets, and, once again, fur.
Custo Barcelona followed in Y-3’s footsteps, using leather and fur as well in his experimental collection. Barcelona focused on mixing textures such as wool, prints and lace.
The L.A. Times called Diane von Furstenberg’s line “Glamour at a moment’s notice.” There were reiterations of her famous wrap dresses and LBDs in shimmering sequins and embellished with puzzle-piece chiffon appliqués.
Lela Rose’s collection focused on multiple trends emerging for this fall. Her garments were geometric and architecturally inspired with streamline silhouettes and floor length dresses. The key trends from her collection were the contrast between black and white, patterns, the use of icy blues, and fur.
The fabulous Marc Jacobs put on a fairytale inspired show on day five. Models wore oversized fur hats that seemed to walk right out of Alice In Wonderland. The color palette included bottle tones of purple and green.
Carolina Herrera focused on drawing attention upward with intricate necklines. Her gowns were architectural and bared little skin. Her casual wear focused on fur and the layering of fabrics and textures.
Quirky Betsey Johnson’s line was 1960s inspired. Models marched down the runway in cheerleading uniforms, and Johnson did her signature cartwheel and splits at the end of the runway. Models wore silver knee high boots, hot pink tights, red leather gloves, and sparkly hot pants. Johnson toned it down a bit with houndstooth jackets and flowing floral dresses.
Jenny Packham’s dresses were red carpet-ready. Her color scheme included black and white, red, pale pink, and icy blue. Models wore Christian Louboutin shoes, and dresses were adorned in silver crystals and tulle. The line was forties glam-inspired and fabrics clung tightly to the model’s bodies. Her final one-sleeved red satin gown with crystal-encrusted tulle was truly amazing.
Oscar de la Renta focused his line on jewelry-inspired prints. Colors were typical of the fall trends (black, white, ice blue, light pink), and of course, fur was included. Cashmere sweaters were the focus for the first half of the show. The second half ended with gorgeous gowns in rose, blue, and silver tulle.
Vera Wang produced a sensual and suggestive line, in which models wore sheer champagne layers, boucle and fur, and crystal mesh. The focus was on the form and silhouette of each model: long, narrow and leggy. Many of her dresses had flourishes of fabric connected to the waist, called peplum, which is another big trend seen at many of the shows.
Rodarte’s colors included black and white, pale pink, blue, pumpkin and rust. There were tiered chiffon ruffled dresses, felted jackets, boucle trims and double breasted and flap pockets on skirts and dresses.
Day seven’s key designers were Michael Kors, Marchesa, and Proenza Schouler. Kors showcased crystal, beaded, stretch jersey gowns, fabulous capes and ponchos, delicate lace skirts, chunky sweaters, sleeveless pea coats, and fur vests. His line was cozy, yet sexy, with touches of leather and lace.
Marchesa’s gowns were absolutely unbelievable. Gowns were hand-embroidered and adorned with feathers and beads. William A. Bouguereau’s painting “A Soul Brought to Heaven” inspired the line. Gowns seemed as if they were floating down the runway.
Proenza Schouler’s line was straightforward, fresh and modern, with a military influence. The line included leather shift dresses, chunky hardware, cracked and woven leather, brocade fabrics and embroidery. Proenza’s was was one of the only collections to alter leather. Jack and Lazaro wove leathers and used cracked leather in many of their garments.
The final day of Fashion Week showcased amazing collections from Calvin Klein and Ralph Lauren. Calvin Klein mixed fabrics and textures and focused on the curve of a woman’s body. The line was wearable, sexy, and urban.
Ralph Lauren’s models came down the runway in British riding inspired clothing. Models walked to the music from popular PBS show, “Downton Abbey.” In an interview with the Associated Press, Lauren remarked, “I have always loved the heritage and romance of England.”
New York Fashion Week showcased many new trends for this coming fall season. Some of the best lines included innovative ways to layer textures and fabrics. The most outstanding gowns came from Monique Lhuillier, Marchesa, and Jenny Packham. Every fall wardrobe should include fur, whether is be real or faux, leather, and some uniquely patterned and colored pieces.