The Darkside of Fashion
The emergence of leather for everyday wear
Written by Devin Reiman, Contributing Writer
Illustrated by Riya Shah, Contributing Illustrator and Designer
The biker aesthetic merges force with femininity. It is composed of beat-up leather goods and a dangerous, tough girl attitude (Childs, 2022). The individuality and uniqueness of this style allow individuals to express themselves and their creativity. It reflects a sense of freedom and control. The wild and dark aesthetics of biker fashion are inextricably linked (Childs, 2022).
Although leather jackets have been worn since 1928, they are just as fashionable today as they were 20 or 50 years ago (Gongini, 2022). Their popularity with youth culture first surged during the rockabilly era in the 1950s, when black motorcycle jackets became an unofficial uniform. Women’s leather jackets in the ‘60s and ‘70s represented images of rebellion (Gongini, 2022). If a woman was seen wearing a leather jacket, people would associate this with either sleeping with a boy or wanting to be one of them; it was viewed as a means of refusing femininity (Gongini, 2022).
In the 1990s, leather jackets became part of mainstream fashion, and designers started making versions of biker jackets specifically tailored to women; they no longer visually represented a rejection of femininity (Gongini, 2022). Over the past 100 years, the leather jacket has evolved into one of the most popular outerwear items thanks to its durability and versatile design (Gongini, 2022).
The raw, organic appearance of leather has inspired rebellious, badass fashion in many ways. Accessories like moto jackets, studded bags and utilitarian gloves have sparked the use of skulls, studs and chunky zippers in fashion looks.
Fashion designers all over the world are incorporating these different, edgy styles into their designs. Throughout the fall 2022 runway shows, elements that propelled the biker trend to more fashion-forward territory included Dior bodices that resembled motocross protective gear and opera gloves that looked more ready to take on the X Games than a night at the theater (Santiago, 2022). Dior also styled black minidresses paired with utilitarian gloves to display an edgy and soft look (Santiago, 2022). Dior’s designs featured protective gear and bicep-grazing motocross gloves over flowy dresses (Santiago, 2022).
Alexander McQueen is another designer who incorporated biker aesthetics into his fall 2022 line. He paired cropped moto jackets with flowy skirts, heavily featuring worn-in leather and lusterless hardware to contribute to the 2022 biker core trend (Santiago, 2022). His designs provide a feminine twist on the classic style, with denim-on-denim looks, rather than the traditionally “masculine” leather jacket look (Santiago, 2022).
Recently, many celebrities have incorporated biker aesthetics into their everyday wardrobe. Back in May, Bella Hadid stepped out into the streets of New York wearing a yellow leather racing jacket, while Hailey Bieber sported a vintage red biking jacket paired with parachute pants (Santiago, 2022). Kylie Jenner also endorsed the trend, wearing a vintage Thierry Mugler padded jacket with a denim miniskirt (Santiago, 2022). Beyoncé took on the style with her British Vogue spread, where she posed on a motorcycle dressed in head-to-toe leather designed by Junya Wantanabe (Santiago, 2022).
It is never a crime to rock leather on leather when it comes to bikercore. Head-to-toe black leather ensembles will be a go-to for those who prefer a bold approach to this trend, while others may opt for a more subtle take by incorporating edgy staple items––like chunky leather moto boots––into their wardrobe.
Sources:
Barbara I Gongini. (n.d.). The Leather Black Jacket. Barbara I Gongini.
Childs, E. (2022, July 29). We're calling it: This 2005 Balenciaga Handbag Trend is making a comeback. The Zoe Report.
Solá-Santiago, F. (n.d.). Biker fashion is in - here's how to dress the part. Refinery29.
Solá-Santiago, F. (n.d.). This is what makes a good motorcycle jacket, according to a real biker. Refinery29.